Gel nails: a rambling guide

Let me start by saying that I am in no way, shape or form a professional Nail Person. I wrote this guide for a friend when she started doing her own gels, and it's a summary of my own research (much of which was produced by actual Nail People) as well as my experiences. If I’ve gotten something wrong, please let me know so I can improve my knowledge of Nail Stuff and update this post.

You will need:

· Cuticle oil

· Acetone

· Nail files – high and low grit

· Cotton balls or pads

· Aluminium foil

· Hot water bottle (optional)

· Orangewood sticks

· Cuticle remover

· High percentage isopropyl alcohol

· Lint-free wipes

· Glass nail file (optional)

· Gel primer

· Gel base coat

· Gel colour

· Gel top coat

· Clean-up brush (I have this in a different design)

· UV/LED lamp (preferably the same brand as your gel)

· Hard gel (optional – I use this after the base coat because my natural nails are so soft)

The products I use are linked where possible. Some links are affiliate.

1. Remove old gel polish. I use the foil wrap technique as follows:

a. Put some cuticle oil on the skin around the nail to help protect it from the acetone.

b. Rough up the gel top coat to break the seal and allow acetone to penetrate all the way through. I use either a low-grit file or the medium grit sanding band on an e-file if I’m wearing a lot of layers or have put normal polish on top of the gel – I’m very careful and gentle with the e-file because I once went right into my nail plate, and that sucker hurt! Just do the bare minimum.

c. Dunk either a cotton ball or pad (I use the rounds cut into four little pie slices) into pure acetone and place it on top of your nail, then wrap the tip of your finger with foil to stop the acetone from evaporating too quickly. You can get pre-cut foil pieces, but I just cut up strong kitchen foil into squares about 4x4 inches. Make sure to bunch up the excess foil under your finger and not on top of your nail if you are going to apply heat.

d. Depending on the brand of gel polish you have on your nails, you may be able to just hang out with your foily fingers for fifteen minutes before it slides right off. However, I use Bluesky colours and top coat, which are pretty hardy, so I sit with my hands under a hot water bottle for anything from fifteen to thirty minutes to remove my gel. The heat helps the acetone to work more effectively, but it does get pretty hot under there, so exercise the usual caution that you would when working with hot things.

e. The polish should either stick to the cotton pad or have peeled up from your nail after soaking (and heat if necessary). Use an orangewood stick (not a steel nail tool, see notes on damage below) dipped in cuticle oil to gently nudge anything that’s left off your nails. If you have to apply any more than the slightest amount of pressure, go back and soak some more. Gel polish is designed to bond to your nail, which is why it lasts so well. If you force it off, you risk peeling up bits of your natural nail, which is not only painful, but it doesn’t heal like your skin would. You’re going to have to grow those dents and scratches out, which can take a really long time. Like six months if you’re me. The same principle applies to picking, peeling or pulling off your gel. DO. NOT. DO. IT. If you like to peel things, get some liquid latex to play with, or use a peel off base coat.

2. Prep

a. Use a cuticle remover gel/spray to soften dead cuticle stuck to the nail, then use a (new) wooden cuticle stick to push them back. Most nail techs don’t recommend using a nipper to get rid of cuticles – doing so can break the skin, introducing infection, and if you have a large or tough eponychium (the skin at the base of the nail) cutting it can make it even harder to manage. I wash my hands after this step but you can wipe off the excess product with an alcohol soaked lint-free wipe.

b. Buff the surface of the nail gently with a high-grit file (I use a 240) to remove the shine from your natural nail and create a slightly roughened surface for your gel to adhere to. I sometimes have a bit of gel still stuck to my nails, but have found that it doesn’t affect the new manicure as long as I’ve buffed it down a bit.

c. Shape the nails as desired (a glass file is a good option here, as it causes less damage and is more efficient). Remember to move the file in one direction only, as moving it back and forth can weaken your nail and cause it to fracture. At this point, make sure that there is nothing on or around your nail that the gel polish can touch or cure onto - these are the points at which you will get peeling and chipping. You want to work with a 'blank canvas'.

d. Wipe the nails thoroughly with a lint-free wipe soaked in isopropyl alcohol. I use 100% but anything from about 70% should be fine.

3. Application

a. Dehydrate the nail plate using the gel primer from your gel polish brand. I wipe off the excess with a clean lint-free wipe instead of waiting ages for it to dry.

b. Apply a thin coat of base coat (always shake your bottle thoroughly first), leaving a tiny gap around the nail so that you don't touch the cuticles or skin. I use a clean-up brush dipped in acetone to make this line neat and clean up any polish on my skin. Gel products that cure onto your skin can cause a life-long allergy to all gel products. Cure according to instructions. Side note: your base and colour coats (and some top coats) will have a sticky layer called the inhibition layer after curing - this is for the next coat to stick to, so don't wipe it off until the very end.

c. Unless you have extremely thin, flexible nails, this step isn’t necessary. At this point, I apply one or two coats of hard gel using the same method. It stops my nails from bending when they grow beyond my nail line.

d. Apply your colour coats in the same way until they are as opaque as you want them. Thin coats are less likely to lift and are safer because they will cure properly. For most Bluesky colours I use three coats.

e. Apply your top coat in the same way. I try to let my top coat overlap the colour ever so slightly around the edges as it is harder than the colour and should protect it. I find that no-wipe top coats are softer and peel up more easily, so I use one that needs to be wiped with alcohol at the end.

f. Apply cuticle oil. A lot. All the time. Use a cuticle oil pen if you find it too messy. This makes the nails and cuticles more flexible and less likely to break, and protects your mani from chipping and scratching, and makes your fingers look pretty and moisturised!

Another side note: it is safest to use the lamp that matches your gel polish brand so you know it will cure correctly. UV lamps are also pretty safe for most gels but take longer. If using an LED lamp that doesn't match your brand, test it on nail swatches to see how long it takes to cure. Uncured gel polish is not nice stuff.